Undiscovered Rosarito (Part One) From the Philadelphia Sun
Smooth Traveler:
Undiscovered Rosarito (Part One)
By Renée S. Gordon
The Baja! The name conjures up images of isolated desert, rugged terrain, and long barren stretches of rutted roads. There are indeed places where the road narrows and there are places where driving is not quite a dream, but also have some of the most beautiful vistas on the continent. The highway, officially Carretera Peninsular Benito Juárez, was completed in 1973 and runs more than 1,000 miles from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas.
Geologically the Baja Peninsula is millions of years old and is one of the world’s longest, at 781-miles. It was separated from the rest of what is now mainland Mexico by earthquakes along the San Andreas Fault, and today rests between the Gulf of California, known as the Sea of Cortés by locals, on the east and the Pacific Ocean on the west.
Archeological evidence points to the earliest documented inhabitants migrating along the California coast from Alaska more than 10,000 years ago. The first Europeans to enter the area were under the leadership of Cortés in 1536. In 1539 Cortés sent Francisco de Ulloa to explore the northern portion of the peninsula and later, Alarcón in 1540 and Cabrillo in 1542 followed.
Though many explorers entered the area it was Hernán Cortés who named it after a character in a novel written forty years before. The author wrote of a remote and beautiful island known as California , populated by Amazons. Their ruler, Calafia, was the most stunning of all, tall, well-built and black, the original “California Girl.”
Alta (Upper) California belongs to the United States while Baja (Lower) California is under Mexican rule and shares a border with the states of California and Arizona . For a variety of reasons the cities and villages of the Baja are ideal places to spend a few days or a few weeks. They are strung out along the coastline like graduated pearls, each one uniquely lovely and offering an allure all its own.
I spent several unforgettable days in the Rosarito Beach area and it ranks high on my scale as an ideal location for romantic, spa and soft adventure vacations. It offers a glimpse into Mexican history and culture, while providing world-class service, dining, and accommodations in oceanfront resorts and hotels. Rosarito has long been a weekend hideaway for movie stars and the likes of Al Capone, and I think it’s time everyone discovered Rosarito Beach .
Getting there is a breeze. It is a thirty-minute drive from San Diego , you must have Mexican insurance that is available at the border, via either the Trans-peninsula Highway or the Ensenada Toll Road . The toll road is the more scenic of the two and is well worth the fee. Public transportation is available from Tijuana or a cab costs approximately $20.00.
The Kumiai inhabited the area when the Spanish arrived in 1533. They called the land “Uacuatay” or “large house.” It was not until 1825 that the name Rosarito appears. In that year, Don Jose Machado founded the 1.5 million acre El Rosarito Ranch. The title became official in 1885 when Rosarito was recognized as the capitol of Baja California .
The Rosarito Beach Hotel is an absolute must visit, not only for its historical importance, but also for the art and architecture on display within its walls. Above the entrance a stained glass window proclaims, “Por esta puerta pasan las mujeres mas hermosas del mundo,” “Through this door pass the most beautiful women in the world.” Stepping inside visitors can take a tour and learn just how true those sentiments were.
The hotel began as an eight-room hunting lodge in the 1920’s, and the city was an outgrowth of the hotel’s increasing expansion and popularity. The owner, Manuel Barbachano, was responsible for the first paved road, telephone, and electricity in the area.
Prohibition proved a boon as the famous and the infamous traveled to Rosarito to gamble, party, hideaway, and relax in its idyllic setting.
The grand hotel foyer is stunning, with 20-foot, hand carved ceilings, specially commissioned murals, and blue Spanish tiles with an obvious Moorish influence. The foyer to the left of the lobby has ornately decorated beams, paintings that depict scenes of Mexican colonial life and colorful reproductions of Aztec and Mayan artworks.
When Prohibition ended the president of Mexico outlawed gambling and what was once a casino, the Salon Mexicana Ballroom, now features cultural programs on weekends.
My favorite space in the hotel is the Azteca Restaurant. This was the place to see and be seen. Brass placards on booths arrayed around the room denote which stars deemed them a favorite. Burgess Meredith and Paulette Goddard sat near Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth, while Gregory Peck, Victor Mature, Marilyn Monroe, Spencer Tracey, Al Capone, Edward G. Robinson, Anthony Quinn and Vincent Price appeared to favor slightly more secluded spots. Legend has it that the margarita was created in the bar just a few steps from the restaurant.
The newly wed owner began construction on a lavish mansion adjacent to the hotel in 1937. The 19-room home, where many movie stars were invited guests, is currently Chabert’s, a gourmet restaurant and Casa Playa, a world-class European spa. The architecture and accoutrements are breathtaking with handcrafted mirrors, tile murals, sweeping staircases and seven distinctive types of marble.
Through the years tiny Rosarito Beach Hotel has grown into an all-inclusive resort complex that offers more than 100 oceanview hotel rooms, 271 oceanfront condos, wedding planning, Olympic-sized pool, gourmet dining, bars, lounges, shopping arcade, entertainment, a full schedule of activities and a full service spa.
It is possible to have a memorable vacation without ever leaving the hotel’s grounds but we came to Rosarito to experience everything Baja’s Gold Coast has to offer. In part two we will explore further field. In the meantime, additional information is available at www.rosarito.org
I wish you smooth and glamorous travels!